This is an on trend wine, observing its tenets of place and low intervention with rigour. It’s a nero d’avola from tiny producer Unico Zelo in the Adelaide Hills and will appeal to those seeking something new or partial to its direction. This wine is a nero d’avola stripped down to its core parts and expressed as a ”fruit wine”. Should this prove incomprehensible, nero d’avola from Sicily tends to have an earthiness on the finish, while this wine has the ripe fruit character of the agreeable Adelaide Hills climate. In the glass, the wine has aromas of sweet raisins. The palate has a core of red, sweet and sour fruit, together with game and piercing green characters. These latter characters are very distictive, run like a seam through the palate and are wild in impression. This wine can be approached young and chilled and is ready to drink. Rating: Good (★★★, 88 points). Website: Unico Zelo. Tasted: September 2023.