There is a word to be coined to describe the combination of despair, resignation and exasperation that is the discovery that a German wine that you thought would be dry, is in fact is off dry or defiantly sweeter than that. Let’s run with trockened. The fear of trockening (sorry, I did say I would run with it), itself can cause its own issues – a syndrome of sorts. For example, a pleasant conversation with a retailer might quickly take on tinges of the unreasonable. Just how “trocken” is this particular “trocken”? Have you tasted the wine? This particular vintage? When? Questions of the actual quantum of residual sugar and total acidity might suddenly seem a sensible thing to be discussed. The abv might be mentioned too. 7.5%? No chance. 12.5%? Surely we are getting near the potential abv for riesling near its northern limit?
Now back to actually writing about this wine. It’s from the Pfalz – a sunny and dry German region that I think of as a northern extension of Alsace – and is a good one. Your dentist won’t recommend it, but your enamel should recover. Eventually. Its aromatics remind of stones and minerals. The palate is resoundingly dry, has bracing acidity and is medium bodied with notes of underripe grapefruit and lemon. I’d buy this again. (Alc: 12.5%, Region: Pfalz, Germany, Rating: Good, Drink: now to 2026)