From the label, you may not even suspect that this wine is from an Australian wine region. Gruyere is a subregion of the Yarra Valley (though not a legally defined one) situated north of Seville and east of Coldstream. The map makes it easier to see:
The 2010 syrah release from Citadine, sees 50% whole bunch fermentation, extended maceration on skins and a wild yeast ferment. And the result is certainly a bit on the edgy side. Medium intensity aromatics of wild herbs, brine, charred wood, bruised plums and match sticks make for an unusual, if somewhat beguiling start. The palate is quite stalky, with notes of green peppercorns and tea tree wood coming through. Some depth and length of plum fruit flavour do emerge with time in the glass, but there is a resounding bitterness to my palate, perhaps attributable to the whole bunches. The herbal flavours also persist. Overall, this is a wine that is a little bit unusual in style, and will appeal to some for so being. Acceptable
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