Lyons Will Estate are a small producer with 5 hectarines under vine in the Macedon Ranges in Victoria, Australia. The Macedon Ranges are one of the Australia’s coolest wine regions (climatically). The vineyard is located at altitude (554 metres) and the climate is continental. Sustainability and minimal intervention are the goals. Reviews of their new release wines follow. Their 2019 pinot noir is particularly successful.
2019 Pinot Noir
The Macedon Ranges is a top region for serious pinot noir in Victoria. This pinot noir has been destemmed and ages for 11 months in French oak (20% new). In the glass, it has complex floral aromas. The palate is medium to full bodied and its high acidity cuts through. It finishes very long, with a refined and elegant bearing. This wine can be approached now, but will suit short term cellaring for 2 to 3 years, and have a best drinking window of a further 5 to 7 years. Rating: Very Good.
This is a very tight riesling. Its alcohol is only 10.8, it finishes dry despite residual sugar of 9g/l and spent 3 months in French oak (old anticipated). The dry impression is likely attributable to its very firm acidity and low pH (2.99). The result in the glass is an ultra crisp style of cool climate riesling. It opens to aromas of red apple and florals. The palate is medium bodied, dry, the alcohol light and its flavour has an intense, crab apple like character. The combination of very high acidity and the cool very citric character of its flavours mean that this wine will appeal to consumers who appreciate high acid styles. It will benefit from 3 to 5 years of cellaring, and then can be approached over the next decade and probably much longer. Rating: Good.
The 2019 chardonnay is a very restrained and serious style. It has tight aromas of nuts and lemon with a saline, savoury bearing. The palate is medium bodied, its acidity high and initially lemon like before it finishes chiselled, delicate and firm. The oak is deftly handled, almost imperceptible and very well integrated. The alcohol is a moderate 13.0. This is a piercing high acid, cool climate expression of chardonnay from the Macedon Ranges. It is not a wine to pop and pour straight from the cellar. It will show its best if left in the glass for at least 30 minutes and brought to near or below room temperature to reveal its delicate complexity. This chardonnay will suit cellaring for a couple of years to soften and can be consumed then over 5-10 years. Rating: Good to Very Good.
Source: Samples. Reviewed: November 2021.