Beaune

The next instalment of my wine trip is Beaune proper, which preceded a trip down the A6 to Buxy in the C么te Chalonnaise. 聽Beaune is a town where it appears difficult to eat and drink poorly. 聽Starting with food, for lunch, I can recommend Le Comptoir des Tontons. 聽The owners are colourful, and the food good. 聽The accompanying聽Domaine Chandon de Briailles Pernand-Vergelesses Premier Cru Les聽Vergelesses 2011 had sappy, cherry and anise aromatics, and an earthy, mid length and balanced palate.


For dinner, the聽Restaurant L’Ardoise in Beaune also proved to be very good with more modern overtones. 聽Dinner was accompanied by Domaine Chanzy Rully En Rosey 2012 with aromatics of lemon and cashew and an elegant, mid length palate.

But now to some rather serious tastings of the portfolios of La Cave des Hautes C么tes/Nuiton Beaunoy, Domaine Roger Belland and Domaine Maillard P猫re & Fils. 聽There is technique to tasting so many wines, and I found that it improved my ability to compare and contrast, rather than detracted from it, which was, more or less, the opposite of what I had expected. 聽Or alternatively a happily ex-poste rationalisation of something I would have enjoyed anyway. 聽Probably the latter.

The first bracket is from La Cave des Hautes C么tes / Nuiton Beaunoy, which proved a tasting of some breadth exploring up and down the C么te de Nuits and the C么te de Beaune. 聽I have added an asterisk next to the best wines of the tasting.

The view.

The whites

Nuiton Beaunoy Bourgogne 2014
Very bright lemon, lemon rind and yellow grape fruit aromatics. 聽Medium to high acid, short to medium length, pleasant and lemon flavours. A bit unexciting. 聽A

Nuiton Beaunoy聽Bourgogne Hautes-C么tes de Beaune Au Meix Genets 2013
Some cashew and lemon the nose. 聽Balanced, quite lemony, a touch of cedar on the palate. 聽This reminded of the new style of Australian chardonnay, and I liked it. 聽My Australian reference was meant as compliment but I suspect was not taken as such. 聽G

Nuiront聽Beaunoy聽Bourgogne Hautes-C么tes de Nuits Les Millottes 2013
Mineral, stone, grapefruit and lemon nose. 聽Palate that is mineral, reminds of grapefruit and has medium to high acid. 聽Some tension, if overly nervous. 聽A-G

*Nuiton Beaunoy聽Meursault 2012
Blossom, floral, lemon and some mineral aromatics. 聽A palate with medium length, fuller through the palate, balanced acidity and some cashew. 聽It was noted in passing that there is increasing diversity in the styles of Meursault, which I see no reason to disagree with. 聽G

The reds


Nuiton Beaunoy聽Bourgogne Pinot Noir Reserve 2013
Aromatics that are quite sappy, stalky with earth and plenty of twigs and fresh rosemary. 聽The palate seems a bit sweet and sour, leaving a slightly bitter residue, with some cherry and earth reminders. 聽A

Nuiton Beaunoy聽Bourgogne Hautes-C么tes de Beaune 2013
From the same vineyard as the white, the aromatics remind of sap, smoke and green rosemary (again!) 聽The palate reveals a lighter style, with cherry and twigs. 聽A

Nuiton Beaunoy聽Bourgogne Hautes-C么tes de Nuits Les Dames Huguettes 2013
Aromatics of cherry and a bit of earth. 聽A palate with cherry, medium tannins and some bitterness. 聽Same rating, but a bit better than the C么tes de Beaune. 聽A

Nuiton Beaunoy聽Beaune 2012
Aromatics of cherry, earth, some smoke and brighter fruit. 聽The acid seems high, with flavours of cherry, and short to medium length. 聽A

*Nuiton Beaunoy Volnay 2012
This is a classier wine. 聽Cherry, earth, smoke. 聽Seems more integrated. 聽A palate that is fuller bodied, with more flavour. 聽Cherries predominant. 聽I always seem to like the Volnays. 聽G

Nuiton Beaunoy聽Gevrey-Chambertin 2012
More nuance on the nose, with aromatics of spice, cherry and blackcurrant. 聽Seems finer. 聽The palate also has some flavour and depth through it. 聽Reminders of earth. 聽Complexity seems to grow in the glass. 聽G

Nuiton Beaunoy聽Nuits-Saint-George 2012
Aromatics of earth and spice. Fruit is there, but secondary to the undergrowth characters. 聽Earth and spice on the palate, short to medium length. 聽The acid doesn’t seem fully integrated. 聽A

*Nuiton Beaunoy聽Morey-Saint-Denis聽Les Sionni猫res聽2009聽
What is it about 2009? 聽It’s clearly a strong vintage in Burgundy too. 聽Integrated, black cherry and earth aromatics. 聽Very attractive fruit. 聽Between medium and long length. 聽Flavours of cherry and earth. 聽Great integration. 聽VG

*Nuiton Beaunoy聽Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru Clos du Chapitre 2011
This is from a monopole of 9 hectares. 聽It immediately has more integrated aromatics of black cherry, earth and blackcurrant leaf aromatics. 聽Between medium and long length. 聽More integrated and harmonious than the preceding wines. 聽Black cherry evident. 聽G-VG

Nuiton Beaunoy聽Morey-Saint-Denis Premier Cru Les Chaffots 2008
Aromatics of sulphur. 聽The palate showed stalky raw tannins, less sulphur and good fruit. 聽I can’t ignore that terrible aroma though. 聽AG, G if you like sulphur aromatics (my experience is that it only worries some), A if you don’t.

Nuiton Beaunoy聽Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru 2008
Some spicey aromatics. 聽Silky palate, with medium length and earth and cherry flavours. 聽G

*Nuiton Beaunoy聽Clos de la Roche Grand Cru 2009
Aromatics of spice, blackcurrant and earth. 聽Complex. 聽Medium to long length, balanced acid, stone, spice, blackcurrant. 聽Complex. 聽This is self-evidently a good wine, and the wine of the set. 聽VG-O

***

The second tasting is a series of new releases from Domaine Roger Belland. 聽This is a very serious producer, and聽the average quality proved to be very high. 聽As a general comment though I should note that I felt the acidity uniformly higher in all of this producer’s wines. 聽Whether this is by design, or just an impression on the morning of this tasting, I am not sure. 聽Either way, this is the sort of tasting that I feel very grateful to have had the opportunity to undertake. 聽I have not put an asterisk next to any particular wine, as almost all of them are recommended.


The whites

Domaine Roger Belland Santenay Comme-Dessus 2013
Aromatics of buttery cedar, yellow nectarine, spice and lemon. 聽Palate with medium to high acid and lemon. 聽The acid seemed a bit separate. 聽A-G

Domaine Roger Belland Santenay-Beauregard Premier Cru 2013
A step up. 聽More integrated aromatics, supplemented by lemon and butter. 聽The palate has medium to high acid, reminder of lemon and is balanced. 聽G-VG

Domaine Roger Belland Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeot-Clos Pitois Premier Cru 2013
Aromatics of cedar, lemon butter, hints of cashew. 聽Integrated. 聽Medium to high acid, medium to long length. 聽This is a delicate wine and quite long. 聽G-VG

Domaine Roger Belland Puligny-Montrachet Les Champs-Gains Premier Cru 2013
Fine bones, with mineral and lemon aromatics. 聽The palate has medium to high acid, butter, medium length and is elegant. 聽G-VG

Domaine Roger Belland Meursault Santenots Premier Cru 2013
Aromatics of cashew, nuts and lemon. 聽The palate has medium to high acid, medium to long length and similar flavours. 聽G-VG

Domaine Roger Belland Criots B芒tard-Montrachet Grand Cru 2013
Aromatics that are fine boned. 聽Cashew, cedar and alluring. 聽The palate has medium to high acid, medium to long length and flavours reminding of lemon butter and minerals. 聽An excellent release. 聽VG

The reds

Domaine Roger Belland聽Santenay Charmes 2013
Aromatics of plum and ripe red juicy strawberries that are quite attractive. 聽Some secondary rosemary. 聽Palate with medium to high acid, cherry and slight bubblegum character. 聽Still good though.聽G

Domaine Roger Belland聽Santenay-Gravi猫res Premier Cru 2013
More integrated aromatics, with strawberry, raspberry and cherry. 聽The usual medium to high acid for this estate, with medium length and similar characters as the nose. 聽Balanced and fine boned wine. 聽G-VG

Domaine Roger Belland聽Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeot-Pitois Premier Cru 2013
A first (for me) Chassagne-Montrachet red. 聽The correction not to pronounce the “t’ in Montrachet remains in my head. 聽Aromatics of plum, strawberry and raspberry. 聽Estate acid profile, medium length, a bit fuller through the palate, with more plum and red fruits. 聽More please.聽G-VG

Domaine Roger Belland聽Pommard Les Cras 2013
Aromatics of plum and spice. 聽Estate acid profile, medium to long length and quite noticeable tannins. 聽G

Domaine Roger Belland聽Volnay Santenots Premier Cru 2013
80% of this is not destemmed, but you wouldn’t know it. 聽There are no bitter twiggy notes here. Aromatics of strawberry, raspberry and cherry. 聽Between medium and high acid and medium length. 聽G-VG

***

The third bracket is from Domaine Maillard P猫re & Fils, which I shall carry over to another post, as this post is already rather long. 聽To conclude, I can recommend the accommodation at the聽Hotel les Remparts in central Beaune. 聽It is situated within聽a beautiful 16th century building, and has a rather stunning breakfast courtyard. 聽Some echoes of Fawlty Towers perhaps, but I liked it all the more for the thought.

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