d’Arenberg is the guardian of approximately one-third of McLaren Vale’s old bush vine grenache vineyards. Exactly how old, and how many of these grapes end up in d’Arenberg’s 2012 Custodian release is less obvious, but what I can put forward is that this wine performs comfortably above its shelf price of $18.
A fairly deep colour in the glass for grenache, the 2012 vintage has aromatics of raspberry, pepper, sweet cherry, earth and a touch of peat. The palate is quite earthy in expression, with raspberry and cherry characters to the fore, low acid and medium length on the finish. It will appeal to those who prefer a more savoury rendition of grenache.