Others may have preferred authors, but for me, Clive Coates MW’s book The Wines of Burgundy is the authority I turn to when I wish to know more about the Burgundy bottle before me. Interpreting the label of a Burgundy bottle is rather like interpreting a legal text at times. Therefore, I confess, it holds an attraction that few others may enjoy.
The Hospices de Beaune consists of two charitable institutions, and the (collective) charity now holds some 58 hectares of vines, nearly all of it premier cru or grand cru. These 58 hectares are then split into 41 different cuvées, which are auctioned. The produce of younger wines is sold in bulk to négociants. This wine is one of those cuvées – the Cuvée Rousseau-Deslandes – which means it has come from the vineyards of Les Cent-Vignes (1 hectare), Les Montrevenots (0.65 hectares) and La Mignotte (0.4 hectares). The wine has been produced by négociant, Maison Champy. I have circled on the map below the location of each of these Beaune premier cru vineyards.
|Source: Clive Coates MW, The Wines of Burgundy (2008, University of California Press)|
It is no wonder that wine education is in demand. The wine itself is good, although I think it is has seen too much oak. It has aromatics of cherry and spice, cooing “pinot noir” quite clearly. The palate has firm cedar characters, with the cherry and spice characters rounding things out. It has towards long length and is modern in style. The oak is quite prominent at this point, but the wine benefits from air and a quite enjoyable, balanced medium bodied wine is the result.