The Hunter Valley’s sub tropical climate is famously unsuited to cabernet varieties, yet somehow benchmark winery Lake’s Folly long ago proved this wrong, and continues to do so today. Established in 1963 by Doctor Max Lake, the estate was purchased in 2000 by Peter and Lee Fogarty and their family. The Fogarty family have maintained an admirably limited offering from Lake’s Folly – still producing only a chardonnay and cabernet blend.
The 2009 release of Lake’s Fooly cabernets is a blend of cabernet sauvignon (67%), shiraz (15%), petit verdot (10%) and merlot (8%), and is grown, vintaged and bottled at the estate, the latter trilogy being something I’d love to see more local estates do (and benefit from). It has aromatics of brooding blackcurrant, blackberry and plum. The palate sees notes of blackcurrant, deftly handled cedar and some anise characters with time in the glass. This is balanced, complex, the length on the finish is quite long, and a credit to the estate. Pours from the bottle were closely observed by all at the table, and the wine disappeared quickly.