Leeuwin Estate’s cabernet sauvignon has never been a particular favourite of mine, as I’ve felt it too “green capsicum” like for my taste. And indeed, looking back over my notes on the ’02, ’03, ’04, ’05 and ’06 Leeuwin cabernets on grapeobserver.com, my comments are more or less consistent. I was a little surprised then by how much I enjoyed this bottle, from the 1992 vintage. Perhaps the Leeuwin just needs a long time in bottle to resolve its primary impressions. Or perhaps since ’92 looks to have been a good vintage in the Margaret River, a strong vintage is needed. Either way, this wine is excellent.
The wine is still a deep intensity garnet in colour, belying its age. It has aromatics of anise and herbs in a medium intensity expression. The palate is dry, with medium to high acidity, and still quite powerful tannins that are fine grained. It rounds out with a balanced and mature expression reminding of blackcurrant, leather and earth, and has a long finish. This is a very good Leeuwin cabernet due to its long length, complexity of expression and clearly its ability to age well, and is ready to drink now. Very Good
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