I don’t get a lot of opportunities to taste Condrieu, an appellation in the Northern Rhone that is only permitted to produce white wine, and then only white wine from the viognier grape. The Condrieu that I have tasted usually have been lacking in freshness, with oily and old apricot pip characters and a somewhat soapy character. This rather stunning wine does not fit that mould at all.
Golden in colour, the wine is bright in the glass with a light intensity in terms of appearance. The 2008 vintage has a complex, medium intensity aroma of minerals, stones, a touch of apricot flower, quince and musk, and is developing. It is the essence of quince really, reminding me, oddly enough, of Maggie Beer’s farm shop in the Barossa Valley. The palate is dry, with medium acidity, between medium and full body and gives itself over to subtle nuanced flavours of stones, kernels and ginger, in a medium length expression. This very good wine is ready to drink now, and will surprise with its intensity of aromatics and balance on the palate. 89 points (very good)
Vendors: Dan Murphy’s
Tasted: July 2012