I think in the rush to pronounce particular foods or additives as “good” or “bad”, sometimes things can be lost. Sulphur dioxide (a preservative) in wine for example can engender caution and in some cases, concern. Yet it is an active antimicrobial agent that helps minimise bacterial spoilage and red wine has substantially lower levels of sulphur dioxide levels than things we consume routinely, such as dried fruit. Therefore, its converse i.e. no preservatives or no added preservatives, might well seem better than it is in the context of wine. Nonetheless, if a winemaker is skilled enough to produce sound wines without preservative additions, such wines can have wonderful primary expressions of fruit.
This wine from David O’Dea – clearly marked as preservative free and organic – happily falls into the skilled group. Its aromatics are unquestionably fruit driven, reminding of walking into a winery – all raisins, plums and estery fruit. The palate is enjoyable and primary, in what is a particularly vivid impression of shiraz. (Alc: 14%, Region: Central Ranges, New South Wales, Rating: Good, Drink: now)