I am seeing a trickle of linear but flavoursome chardonnay styles from the Tumbarumba region in the foothills of the Snowy Mountains in New South Wales. It’s a style with some appeal. This wine from the 2013 vintage under the Monocle label has tight aromatics of lemon, stones and stone fruit kernel. The palate is more giving, with quite expressive and towards long length and flavours reminding of lemon, almond and white nectarine (although think “supermarket ripeness” rather than the real thing). This is really quite an attractive chardonnay due to its length and some complexity, and it punches above its price point.