This is a resoundingly delicious wine from Claude Dugat. From Lavaux-Saint-Jacques, the biggest of the Gevrey-Chambertin premier cru vineyards at 9.53 hectares and situated immediately south of Clos Saint-Jacques, the wine is quite deeply coloured (for pinot noir) and opens to aromatics of blackcurrants, fruit and violets. The palate has fantastic length, with fresh acidity, tannins and great fruit. This wine can be approached now, but should evolve and improve with a decade in the cellar. Rating: Outstanding. Abv: 13.5%. Price: $300+. Website: na. Tasted: October 2018.
So many notes, so little time. This was an outstanding tasting of a bracket of premier cru wines from Gevrey-Chambertin and Nuits-Saint-Georges from the 2012 and 2013 vintages. The distinction between the 2012 and 2013 vintages seemed finer at this tasting (see my earlier vintage comparison here), with the better wines appearing to be from 2012, when frequently they were in fact from the more austere 2013 vintage and just an example of a very good producer or wine.
In terms of style, this was not a tasting where it was easy to point to particular characters that define the appellations. In theory, Gevrey is classically full and masculine, but a little fleshy. And in theory, Nuits-Saint-Georges can have richness, structure and minerally, gamey notes. On this tasting, these characters could be found across many of the wines, regardless of the appellation. If generalisations might be made, the Nuits-Saint-Georges were a little harder in terms of fruit profile and the highest peaks surpassable by the Gevreys.
Jacques-Frederic Mugnier Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Cru Clos de la Maréchale 2014
First up, a white Nuits-Saint-Georges. Who knew? Well, there are only 7.3 hectares of chardonnay planted in the appellation (299 hectares are planted to pinot noir), and so it’s a slight surprise to see one in Australia. Clos de la Maréchale is a monopole of JF Mugnier. In the glass, there are cumquat and lemon aromatics. Fresh acidity, cashew and good length complete the palate. Good to Very Good
Domaine Confuron-Cotetidot Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Cru Les Vignes-Rondes 2013
Les Vignes-Rondes appears to be the Aux Vignerondes climat, which is at the northern end of Nuits-Saint-Georges nearer to Vosne-Romanée. In the glass, there are aromas of florals, rose, potpourri and a slight rawness of youth. The palate has firmish acid, mid range tannins and some licorice characters. Good to Very Good
Domaine de Bellene Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Cru Aux Chaignots 2013
Aux Chaignots is literally next to Aux Vignerondes in the northern part of Nuits-Saint-Georges. And re-reading my notes, it is plain that these wines provide a similar impression. Aromas of rose, florals and cherries. There is towards high acidity on the palate with good length and a mineral streak. Very Good
Domaine Chevillon Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Cru Les Saint-Georges 2013
Les Saint-Georges is the greatest climate in Nuits-Saint-Georges and sits next to Premeax in the south of the appellation. This is a delicious Les Saint-Georges from Domaine Chevillon. It has complex aromas of rose, potpourri and cherries. The tannins are very firm and the length on the finish very long. Too young to drink now, this is nonetheless worth your interest. Very Good to Outstanding
Domaine Henri Gouges Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Cru Les Pruliers 2013
Les Pruliers is closer to town, but still on the southern side of Nuits-Saint-Georges and is very well regarded. In the glass here, there are aromas of licorice, blackcurrant and soy. The palate has good length with licorice, mid range tannins and a bitter note. Good to Very Good
Domaine Arlaud Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru Aux Combottes 2013
Aux Combottes sits on the border of Morey-St-Denis next to grand cru Latricières in Gevrey-Chambertin and Clos de la Roche in Morey-St-Denis. An almost grand cru, it is highly regarded. In the glass, there is a leafy impression, overlaid with some smoke characters. Whole bunch? The palate reminds of licorice, wood, cloves and is savoury with mid range tannins and good length. Good to Very Good
Domaine Jean Michel Guillon & Fils Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru Les Champonnets 2013
Les Champonnets is a 3.32 hectare appellation next to the town. This wine has richer aromas of cherry. The palate has long length and expressions of cherries, minerals, bacon, licorice, firm tannins and very long length. An outstanding wine. Very Good to Outstanding
Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru Clos Saint-Jacques 2012
Clos Saint-Jacques is a grand cru in all but name. This wine presented very well, aided by both appellation and vintage (the first of the 2012s). In the glass, aromas of butter and blackcurrant. The palate is soft with long length, licorice, cedar, fresh acidity and a mineral streak. Very Good to Outstanding
Albert Bichot Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru Lavaux-Saint-Jacques 2012
Lavaux-Saint-Jacques is next to Clos Saint-Jacques. It’s a very good wine. Aromas of rose, potpourri, cherry and mulberry. There’s a ripeness through the mid-palate of this wine (another 2012), long length and cherries, tannins and good structure and balance. Very Good