This is another very good value wine from Molly Morgan in the Hunter Valley. At only $15, and despite it using the Côte Rôtie blend of shiraz and viognier adopted widely in Australia following the commercial success of Tim Kirk’s Clonakilla shiraz viognier, it has more than a passing resemblance to a Crozes-Hermitage in terms of style. At $15, these are nice thoughts to be having. The heavy “viogner” hand sometimes seen in Australian shiraz viognier blends resulting in goopy glycerol laden textures and spiky alcohol is happily absent.
Made by winemaker Simon Miles, the wine is bright with a medium intensity ruby in colour, lacking the saturation seen in some of its South Australian counterparts. On the nose, it has a medium intensity expression of earth, red cherries, raspberries, a touch of iodine, green peppercorns, some kernels and cloves. The palate is dry, with light tannins, medium body, medium(-) length and intensity of flavours, with the green peppercorn note a constant. This is not a deep or concentrated wine and the length is not long, yet it has a balance and savoury profile which would make it difficult, I think, to identify this wine blind as having been produced outside of the northern Rhône Valley. And it would retail for much more in Australia if it were. I often find this type of current drinking balanced Australian red wine difficult to find at this price point, and so Molly Morgan’s wine here is attractive for that reason. Save some money, try this instead of your next Crozes. 84 points (good)