Spanish albarino is cool at the moment. It nonetheless remains somewhat notorious in Australia due to an error that led to Australian importations of cuttings that were thought by all to be of albarino, but turned out to be the less popular savignan grape. Savignan is mostly grown in the Jura near the French Alps and used to produce the sherry like vin jaune which matures under flor yeast. Cool too, but a different cool.
The 2004 vintage of Pazo Senorans’ albarino proved to be an interesting wine. Golden in colour, it has an aroma of bruised peaches, gym bag, stone fruit in a light to medium intensity expression. Herbs, lemon citrus, musk and sulphur also are lurking. The palate is a clean expression of lemon citrus, seasoned with herbs and a telltale touch of musk. A promising wine, yet I would suggest it is more for when you might wish to try something a bit different than everyday drinking. 85 points (very good)
Vendors: the vintage tasted seems unavailable, though a more recent vintage available at http://www.worldwine.com.au
Tasted: December 2011