In theory

In theory, cortese it is not an aromatic wine, has high acidity, a dry and perhaps bitter finish and is not fruit driven. Its purpose is to be fresh and structured. Its primary home is in Piemonte and Gavi in particular. Alternatives might include gargenaga (more aromatic), arneis (lower acidity) or more troublingly, any generic white ranging from trebbiano (more plain), pinot grigio and through to even petit Chablis (more aromatic).

The practical identification of Gavi is less straightforward. In this case, we have the Michele Chiarlo Palás Gavi 2020 and the Le Terre di Stefano Masera Gavi 2019. Both wines are a pale lemon in colour. The former wine has aromas that evolve quite considerably in the glass as the wine warms. Initially, there are moderate aromatics of pear, spice, lemon and jasmine. Its aromas resemble pinot grigio in many respects. However, in time, the aromas become more muted, herbal and plain. So an early tasting would have identified the wrong wine – pinot grigio. The palate too evolves, initially seeming quite viscous and almost full bodied, whereas time reveals a medium bodied wine and moderate alcohol (12.5) and the flavour seems to fall away. The acidity is between medium and high, rather than definitively high as the theory suggests. The wine overall is clean and unoaked, with its initial fruit tending towards a savoury, bitter finish. This is a version of the paradigm, but is more aromatic and required time in the glass for correct identification. Rating: Acceptable to Good (★★☆).

The latter wine (the Le Terre di Stefano Masera Gavi) presents quite differently to the Michele Chiarlo wine and aligns with Gavi theory from the beginning. It has aromas of lemon, minerals and herbs. The palate is flinty, smokey and has a reductive quality. It is medium bodied, unoaked and dry with medium to high acidity. Initially the wine appeared fruity, but with time in the glass, it finished on acidity, minerals and bitterness. This wine presents in a challengingly generic way, with pinot grigio its most obvious lateral. Rating: Good (★★★).