Viognier can be a difficult grape to get right. It more often than might be hoped for can result in a wine with an alcohol level that is unbalanced relative to its fruit (towards and sometimes over “15”), and can be bitter too. Lark Hill’s 2011 viognier from their “Dark Horse” vineyard in the Murrumbateman sub-region of the Canberra District happily does not fall into these traps. Lemon-green in colour, it has an aroma of spice, lemon pith and apricot kernel. On the palate, a viscous texture together with notes of apricot, spice and oil. Good length too. There is a subtlety and delicacy that distinguishes this viognier, particularly having tasted a couple of more brute like versions from the Yarra Valley recently. Recommended. Perhaps there is something in the region, as I like Clonakilla’s viognier too, and this one is $20 less. 88 to 89 points.