Lark Hill is one of a handful of wineries in Australia who fashion a wine from the Austrian grape, gruner veltliner. Judging by the excellent 2010, the biodynamically managed Lark Hill are on to something with this variety in the cool Canberra District. 2011 is described by winemaker Chris Carpenter as a challenging year, with significant rains in Spring and a generous fruit set, a cool Summer and a mild Autumn. The wine however does not disappoint – quite the opposite in fact – the vintage conditions allowing a pure, minerally version of the varietal to be expressed. In short, this wine is very much recommended. In slightly longer form, the 2011 is somewhere between clear and lemon-green in colour, with a clean, elegant aroma with a touch of peaches, attractive minerality and spice. On the palate, there is firm but not too firm acidity, coupled with spices and nice length. Balanced and enjoyable are words that come to mind, and at a low alcohol level too. And frankly it’s just nice to be drinking something a bit different that works. 89 points.